Widow's Walk Suite
Nathaniel's 1794 wing, with a sitting room and a private stair to the roof.
See the suiteSecond floor · King
The room Captain Josiah Crane built for himself in 1748, facing the water he made his living on. The paneling is his. The mattress, thankfully, is not.
Josiah Crane was twenty-six when he built this house, already master of a seventy-ton schooner in the West Indies trade: salt fish and lumber south to the sugar islands, molasses and sugar back north to the distilleries. He took the front chamber on the second floor for himself, the best room in the house, and he paid for it. The fireplace wall is covered floor to ceiling in raised-field paneling, the most expensive interior finish a Salem joiner could offer in the 1740s, and when the Fairweathers stripped it during the restoration they found the original color underneath eleven later coats: a deep blue-green that we now call, without much imagination, Crane blue. It is back on the walls.
The two front windows are twelve-over-twelve sash, with the thick muntins of the period and their original folding interior shutters still working in the window jambs. From the left-hand window, if you stand close and look slightly downhill between two rooftops on Mercy Lane, you can see a slice of Salem Harbor. It is a glimpse, not a view, and we describe it that way on purpose. Josiah, who spent most of his life looking at the sea, may have liked it better as a glimpse too.
His probate inventory, taken after he died in this house in 1789, survives in a copy in our Library. It lists, among the pewter and the chairs, "one spy glass," "one sea chest, much worn," and "a bed & furniture in the front chamber." We have tried to honor the list. The sea chest at the foot of the bed is a period piece of the right kind (not his; his has never turned up), and a brass telescope sits on the window seat. You are welcome to use it. Most guests aim it at the harbor; a few aim it at the widow's walk on the roof of the wing behind, which is a separate matter and a separate room.
The Crane & Lantern House was built in 1748 by Captain Josiah Crane, a merchant captain in the West Indies trade, and enlarged in 1794 by his son Nathaniel, who added the Federal-style rear wing and the widow's walk. Since then it's been an apothecary, a boarding house for sailors, a funeral parlor and, for a time, a building no one wanted. Restored in the 1990s and run by Maren and Theo Alcott since 2014, it now has nine guest rooms, a breakfast room, a restaurant, a bar in the old viewing parlor, and a few residents who never seem to check out. Mostly quiet.
A king bed with a carved headboard made for us by a furniture maker in Maine, dressed in white linen and a wool coverlet woven in a pattern copied from an eighteenth-century coverlet in the Library. A deep wing chair by the fire and a reading lamp that is much brighter than anything Josiah owned. A slant-front writing desk between the windows with inn stationery, a fountain pen and an ink bottle that has outlived three innkeepers. The original fireplace, now fitted with an electric insert: the flue was sealed in 1991 on the advice of the fire marshal, but the flicker is convincing and it throws real heat, which matters on a January night in a house with 1748 windows.
The floor is original white pine, some boards nearly twenty inches wide, and it speaks when you cross it. The bathroom was carved out of what was once a powdering closet and a slice of the hall. It has a tiled walk-in shower with a rainfall head, a pedestal sink and heated floors, and the door is a reused eighteenth-century door, so it has a thumb latch instead of a knob. Guests usually figure it out on the second try.
| Season | Dates | From, per night |
|---|---|---|
| Winter | January – March | $289 |
| Spring | April – May | $329 |
| Summer & early fall | June – September | $369 |
| October | All month | $429 |
| Late fall & holidays | November – December | $339 |
Rates vary by season and day of the week; weekend nights are at the upper end. Taxes not included. Breakfast for two is included. 2-night minimum on weekends, 3 nights for any stay touching an October weekend.
I spent our anniversary trying to find the harbor through the telescope and my wife spent it reading by the fire. We were both very happy. The floor creaks like a ship, which feels right.
— A guest, the Captain's Quarters, February 2024